
As the first woman from Taiwan who has climbed to the top of Mt. Everest and the first lady park ranger in Taiwan, Shiou-jen Chiang is the only female of the 7 Peaks Pro Climbing Team. A mountaineer for 2 decades, 36-year-old Chiang is writing a legend with her youth and sweats in the circle.
June 19, 2007, after 7-hour of continuous climbing over icy ridges, Shiou-jen Chiang successfully reached the top of Mountain Mckinley at 6,196 m high with the other 4 members of the Atunas 7 Peaks Pro Climbing Team, Yu-long Wu, Yin-su Hsieh, Chih-hao Huang, and Po-cheng Huang. Mt. Mckinley in Alaska is the highest mountain in North America, and the fourth of the world’s 7 peaks Chiang climbed in the past year.
On the snow-covered peak of Mt. Mckinley not far from the Arctic Circle, the average summer temperature of is minus 30~40℃. It is particularly dangerous to cross over the bergschrund. “On the way back, I slipped and fell once.Luckily I was rescued by my teammates who used a piolet to secure us to the ground,” Chiang recalled that breathtaking moment.
“Every climbing is a self-challenge and learning experience. Mountain climbing is risky in nature and should never be overlooked. Preparation is always the priority!” Cheerful and yet attentive, Chiang’ s success in mountaineering is not just a matter of chance and luck.
First Climbing at Age of 18
Chiang was born in Shuangsi Township of Taipei County, the home of ginger lily (Hedychium coronarium Koenig) and where her fondness of nature was developed. Chiang’s family financial situation was difficult and so she decided to work while studying at a professional college. She developed an independent, perseverant and responsible personality as well as the physical strength by joining in the sports team at school, which laid the foundation for her later mountain-climbing career.
Chiang’s fi rst mountain-climbing happened in her second year at high school when attending a Youth Corp activity. “I chose to climb Syue Mountains in winter. Although I didn’t reach the top due to the bad weather, I was inspired by our team leader who told us, ‘the process is more important than reaching the top.’ The concept was rooted in my mind ever since.”
Upon graduation from high school, Chiang gave up advanced study for working and devoted her leisure time for mountaineering. She joint the Sanfan Mountaineering Association where senior members all took care of her. Chiang learned a lot from them and got the certificated as a mountain guide at age of 20.
In 1993, Chin-hsiung Wu became the first Taiwanese climbing to Mt. Everest and led the trend in Taiwan. Chiang was motivated and passed audition for the Mt. Everest Climbing Team. This adventure opened another door for her to a new life vision.
- upper: Climbing over Every Peak / by Shiou-jen,Park Ranger YSNP
- lower left: Before reaching the peak of Mt. Mckinely, one must overcome the steep and dangerous ridge. / provided by Shioujen Chiang
- lower center: Chiang recalled in peak climbing the precitipous height is very difficult to overcome and a challenge to one’s will. / provided by Shiou-jen Chiang
- lower right: The first climbing of the 7 Peaks Project is the spectacular Mt. Caucasus. / provided by Shiou-jen Chiang
Text & Photographer / Ching-lian Pang
Photo provider / Shiou-jen Chiang, Park Ranger of YSNP
Training in a Primitive Way
“At that time we didn’t have any fund, and the team had to train ourselves in a primitive way in Taiwan. We started off after one year of intensive programs including hypoxic training, rock-climbing and snowfield training, etc.” Chiang quitted her job for the “ultimate challenge” acknowledged by international mountaineers.
On March 11, 1995, 24-year-old Chiang started off with the climbing team as female high mountain guide. It took them two months to reaching the top of Mt. Everest. When recalling this crusade, Chiang laughed at the two-month dry-bathing experience. The temperature variation of 60 degrees as so unbearable and the hypoxic condition almost made them crazy. On May 12, after 10 hours’ climbing from their 6th camp at 8,300 m high, they finally reached the top of the world. She was so thrilled that for a moment and her mind was totally blank but then filled with gratitude and respect to the Nature.
“We are lucky that the weather was good for us to finish climbing, otherwise we won’t be able fulfill our dream even with perfect physical strength and training.” The almost 2-year experience of training and climbing Mt. Everest gave Chiang more confidence and strength.
Back to Campus and Joining Hobby with Career
Eager to self-improvement, Chiang went to study Planet Preservation at NCU in 1996 and graduated from Forestry Department in 2002. She worked as a guide at Meifong Farm and enjoyed the fun of cultivating saplings.of Taiwan primary plants.
3 years later, Chiang passed the exam of YSNP at excellent grades and worked as a park ranger. Former Director of YSNP Chin Lin recalled that the exam was very tough, regardless of gender, demanding on the ability of climbing, rescue, knowledge about ecology and computer. Chiang’s performance was indeed of excellence.
Last year, Chiang was enrolled to the on-job Master degree program at Forestry Science of NCU, and at the same time to the team of the Atunas 7 Peaks Pro Climbing Team. She was very grateful to her experiences. “I am lucky to be able to embrace the Nature and practice what I learn. I must treasure this god-sent blessing!”
Fulfill the Dream of Soaring High
“To climb the top 7 peaks in the world in 2 years is a mission impossible.” Chiang now has different expectation for the project in contrast with her climbing Mt. Everest over 10 years ago. “I don’t want to create a record for myself but to accumulate more experiences and contribute to mountaineering in Taiwan with a nice performance”.
Chiang says that climbing the top 7 peaks is far more difficult than winning an Olympic Gold Medal. It’s not only the geographical distance but the unique perils of topography and weather of those mountains from 4,884 m to 8,848 m high that you won’t realize until you are in.
Last July Chiang and the team climbed the highest peak in Europe, the Elbrus of Mt. Caucasus. Having overcomed the freezing temperature, snow-covered steep slope, thin air and loss of physical strength, the team finally reached the top on August 5, after 8-hour climbing that day. Chiang was fascinated with the unknown flowers and various landscapes on the way. She also tried to learn about local mountaineering systems, use new gears, share experience, and record wildlife recording. Through such multi-disciplinary learning, she devoted herself to fulfill the ideal of feedback to the legacy.
- left: Mt. Kilimanjaro is like the heaven on Earth. / provided by Shiou-jen Chiang)
- center: Senecio Kilimanjari grows on the stretching grassland by Mt. Kilimanjaro. / provided by Shiou-jen Chiang
- right: Chiang was very impressed by the detailed and informative explanation by the mountain guide. / provided by Shiou-jen Chiang
Second Time for Mt. Everest
In October of the same year, the team successfully reached the peak of Kilimanjaro. It is most challenging to endure the various climates of the rainforest, alpine grassland, semi-desert and rocky environment, and tundra on the top. When they reached the top, the temperature was minus 20°C under the effect of strong wind and icy sleet.
This February Chiang went for the third destination—Mt. Aconcagua, the second highest in the world at an elevation of almost 7000 m. The first time they failed due to the heavy snow storm. On the second climbing, Chiang was assigned to stay at camp alone for supplies. It took the team 2 days and 2 nights against the snow storm to reach the top. Chiang was so thrilled to record the precious moment that almost cost her life.
The successive success gives Chiang more confidence in completing the 7 peaks project. By schedule, this September the team will spend 10 days to climb Mt. Carstensz in New Guinea. In December they will go to the Vinson Massif in Antarctica, which Chiang looks forward to most. Before she climbed Mt. Mckinley this June, Chiang had already taken a two-week’s snowfield intensive training at the climbing school and got certifi cated. This is the best preparation for her South Pole climbing and next year’s revisiting Mt. Everest.
Founding the Mountaineering Education Program
In the 4 overseas mountaineering trips in a year and half, the souvenirs Chiang brought home are all maps, books and postcards. For Chiang, these souvenirs are not only the records of her experiences, but also great informative materials for future teaching.
When working as the park ranger at YSNP, her footprints cover all over the mountains in the park for countless times. She thinks that Taiwan mountaineers are very fortunate to be able to enjoy the well-equipped facilities. For example, the trekkers can stay in a cabin every night for the entire trip along Nanerduan. Through everyone’s collaboration to protect the Nature, Chiang believes that the sustainability of forests in Taiwan will surely be possible.
As to the future, Chiang’s goal is as defi nite as that of a mountaineer. She wishes to found the first Mountaineering Education Study program in Taiwan. Mountain climbing does not only require physical strength, but also knowledge on wildlife, geography, meteorology, leadership, interpersonal skills, planning and marketing, and photography, etc. If these subjects can become parts of the formal educational system, Taiwan would be more competitive and potential to develop mountaineering-related industry. Moreover, if related qualifications for guides in different fields will have more credibility if they can be recognized as national credentials.
An Unlimited Scope of Life
For most people, mountain climbing is merely a hobby, but Chiang takes it as a life career. Mountain climbing changes her life and brings fullness and perfection to her life. She continues to improve herself by learning different of professional skills for mountain climbing. She even studies “the Art of War” by Sunzi in order to be a better team leader.
“What I learn from the mountains is never limit my life. I did and will be committed to pursue the true meaning and value of my life!”

Shiou-jen Chiang
- Specialty: mountaineering, oudiv>
- Education: On-Job Master Degree Program of Forestry, National Chiayi University
- Currently: Park Ranger of YSNP
- Climbing Experience: successfully climbing Mt. Everest, Mt. Elbrus(Europe), Mt. Kilimanjaro (Africa), Mt. Aconcagua (South America), Mt. Mckinley (North America), etc.
- left: The freezing landscape of Mt. Aconcagua. / provided by Shiou-jen Chiang
- center: Piles of books, postcards and maps are Chiang's favorite souvenirs. / provided by Ching-lian Pang
- right: The topography of Mt. Aconcagua is precipitous and very dangerous. / provided by Shiou-jen Chiang