A Journey Back to 2011: Cycling the First Loop of Taiwan’s National Parks

A Journey Back to 2011: Cycling the First Loop of Taiwan’s National Parks Around 2010, a craze for round- island cycling trips began to sweep across Taiwan. A cycling club formed by like-minded staff from the former Construction and Planning Agency’s National Parks Division (now the National Park Service) also independently organized a round-island trip, setting off on October 7, 2011.

A team of 18 riders—supported by a scooter and a backup vehicle—participated in this trip. They successfully cycled 1,118 kilometers, completing the full round-island route in 10 days. The goal of the round-island trip was to connect the various national parks on Taiwan’s main island by passing through Shei- Pa, Taijiang, Kenting, Taroko,Yushan, and Yangmingshan, as well as the Marine National Park Headquarters.

Chang Wei-Chuan, Deputy Director-General of the National Park Service, was the cycling team’s captain. He explains,“A traditional round-island cycling trip in Taiwan covers just over 900 kilometers, and whether you ride clockwise or counter- clockwise, it generally takes 9 days to complete the route. Since we planned to stop by Kenting, which increased our distance, we added some extra time to our itinerary.”

When describing the trip, Chang’s voice still expresses the excitement he felt back then. “On Day 1, we set off from the Construction and Planning Agency on Taipei’s Bade Road, then took Provincial Highway 3 to visit Shei-Pa National Park. We stopped in Shitan for an overnight stay, and the following morning, we arrived at Shei-Pa’s Wenshui Visitor Center in Dahu. The whole route consisted of mountain slopes until we reached the Shigang area of Taichung, where we finally hit flat land.”

After an overnight stay in Douliu on Day 2, they set out on Day 3 for the longest and farthest ride of the trip. As the cycling team prepared to head to Taijiang National Park for check-in, the route gradually transitioned from the mountains toward the coast. Following a quick break, they rode straight to Zuoying and arrived later that same evening. The next day, they packed their gear and cycled toward Kenting National Park. For the following part of the round-island trip, they took the South Link Highway to visit the Nan’an Visitor Center of Yushan National Park. From there, they passed through Shoufeng and the entrance to Taroko Gorge, and for the final segment, they made their way back up to Yangmingshan in Taipei.

“Although there was a risk of falling rocks along the Suhua Highway section of the route, the scenery was incredibly beautiful. It’s something well worth experiencing once in your life. However, once is enough,”Chang says with a smile. 

The Slower the Ride, the Richer the View

Chang points out with deep feeling,“The greatest thing about cycling is that you can experience much more than you can when traveling by car.”For example, as you cycle across the Chianan Plain toward Qigu, you can feel the air getting increasingly humid; as you traverse the Suhua Highway and speed down the descents, you can admire the magnificence of the cliffs; and on the winding roads of Yangmingshan, every turn brings you a fresh landscape painting.

During that journey, with an average cycling speed of under 50 km/h, every single scene was incredibly vivid—probably because cycling allows you to directly experience the island’s mountains and sea, day and night, with all your senses. Combined with the spectacular, colorful landscapes and heartwarming human interactions, these precious moments made the trip an unforgettable, lifelong memory for all participants.

Pick the Right Season and Prepare Yourself

However, a round-island cycling trip like this one requires careful and comprehensive planning. Chang explains,“We scheduled the trip in October, which wasn’t simply to take advantage of the holiday weekend. The main reason was that the timing allowed us to catch the northeast monsoon on the counter- clockwise route.” Riding with a tailwind can help cyclists save energy and pick up speed to some extent. He further explains that the intense summer heat exposes cyclists to the risks of heatstroke and sunburns, whereas in the winter, frequent rains make the roads slippery and hazardous. Therefore, autumn remains the ideal season for cycling.

Chang proudly notes that,“Although we were all amateur riders, we did sufficient group training beforehand.”Every weekend, they cycled about 70 to 100 kilometers on the outskirts of the city, which included repeated training at various intensities on both climbs and flat roads to build their stamina. Moreover, before departure, everyone was required to perform a thorough bicycle safety check, including the brake pads, tires, gears, and lights.

Chang emphasizes that unlike professional round-island cycling teams, who travel with dedicated mechanics, all members of his team needed to be able to handle basic bike repairs on their own.“Throughout the entire journey, we only encountered one major mishap. One of our members got a wheel stuck in the tracks at a railroad crossing, which caused a fall and a few scrapes. Even so, all of us still completed the challenge in the end.”

Through Mountains, Seas, and Years —— 15 Years later

Fifteen years after the round- island trip, the National Park Service is now promoting a low- carbon eco-tourism initiative. By launching cycling tours in Kinmen and Taijiang, it encourages the public to explore local destinations at a rhythmic, leisurely pace to understand more about Taiwan. In addition to these beginner- friendly routes, the national parks also offer some highly challenging options, the most notable being the routes up to Wuling. Chang points out, “Wuling (altitude: 3,275 m) is the highest point of Taiwan’s road network. The northern route up to Wuling is the most difficult route; it’s not for casual riding, but an extreme challenge!”

As for the round-island team formed in 2011, some members are still working at the National Park Service; others have retired and are enjoying a carefree life. Sadly, the team lost two members, who have passed away. Looking back, it seems that the trip perfectly illustrates the journey of life: you have some great company on the ride; when you’re completely exhausted, someone will say,‘You’re almost there!’; and someone will go on ahead to scout out the next rest stop or starting point.

A thousand-kilometer nature odyssey on two wheels also allows us to step outside the concrete jungle and discover a side of Taiwan that we could never see from our offices or cities. By exploring national parks through cycling, we can discover two beautiful rewards: people and scenery.